Pursuing the Yamuna upstream to Purola, the gateway to Har ki doon, a valley in north Uttarakhand, a trekker gets lost in blue skies, a warm sun, and many-hued birds.
The bus leaves Purola, carrying daily commuters, and makes its way up the valley of the Kamal river at a measured pace, hugging the curves of the smooth road. I look out on a remarkably wide valley dotted with neat habitations amidst green fields of wheat and jowar. Seated next to me, a soft-spoken pahadi patiently answers my questions. The driver plays a melodious Garhwali song and I can picture a slow rhythmic harvest dance.
My phone rings – it’s Rana wondering whether I feel welcome in the hills. Yes, I do.
